What we learned last week: Brace of Dab

Who knew that "brace of dab" means a pair of dab, dab being a small flat fish like plaice. You can eat a brace of dab at St. John's (www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk), a couple of exotic London restaurants that specialize in meat and fish and aim to use all of the animal. So you can have brains, head, cheek, wild duck, dab and some really mean desserts. The pig's cheek was out of this world. Worth trying and it's not that expensive, but an extremely bad place for vegetarians. The wine list is unusual and mostly French. I'd call this restaurant "historically informed cuisine", aka HIC. Two locations, Smithfield and Spitalfields, both in the City.