When in Rome

Continuing from a previous post about artichokes, I wanted to share a few more anecdotes from my all too short visit to Rome in mid-April. The last day of our stay, before heading to the airport, my mom and I spent a few hours running around the historic centre of Rome. Our first stop was Campo de' Fiori, which has a posh fruit and veg market in the first half of the day. Come here to buy whatever is in season and locally grown. The produce is gorgeous and so fresh. There is also a cheese and cured meat stall that sells the cheapest parmigiano reggiano I've found - 12.50 Euro/kilo. There is also the guy who sells dozens of different spice mixes! My favorite was seeing two cute elderly nuns picking out some goodies.


Nuns pick out produce in Campo de' Fiori, Rome

For lunch we headed to Da Tonino, Via del Governo Vecchio, 18 (very close to Piazza Navona), my preferred dining spot in Rome when I want something cheap, homestyle, informal and packed with Romans. The food is delicious. It hasn't got a sign on the outside. We had pasta e fagioli (pasta and borlotti beans), a heavy, but thoroughly filling dish. I also indulged in yet another delicious plate of carciofi alla romana. It's a place you can just sit down and [if you know how to speak Italian] just ask them to rattle of the specialties of the day - no menu (though you can ask for one. If you look like a tourist they'll just hand you one automatically). I've seen people come in and do custom orders and the waiters don't bat an eye. The place gets packed by about 2.30 p.m. on a weekday and people share tables and can barely move around. Romans talk and gesticulate loudly and everyone just seems to have a good time.



Da Tonino and carciofi alla romana

They specially trim the artichokes in Rome (see my photo below) with very sharp little knives. I attempted this back in London, but couldn't get the knives sharp enough to do the trimming on the edges. These are rubbed with lemon and soaked in lemon water until you are done trimming them. A mixture of mint, parsley, garlic, olive oil and salt is rubbed into the leaves and then they are cooked in water and olive oil until tender (25-40 minutes). I tried to do this, but the ones I ate in Rome were so much more tender!